Forced Air cooled, ultra high wattage, h4 halogen, headlights.





14/September/2018

#1

The invention is about:


Ultra high wattage h4 halogen headlamps, with the correct, unbeatable by the leds and the xenon hids,  light pattern and Kelvin grade, working in a forced air cooled, tightly sealed environment.

 The headlamps crystal cover is touchable by the hand, (with the standard 55/60W lamp), during operation, but even the base of the halogen lamp can be touched, (for a few seconds).

 This is a tremendously life extending factor for the halogen lamp and for the, (polycarbonate or metal), reflector plating, giving the opportunity, for the first time, to use the latest 100/145~160W halogens without problems. (At least it seems so). 


(The invention has to do with the configuration of an environment which can cool down the lamps and the reflector's surface, keeping, simultaneously, the cooling air clean through recirculation).


(Halogen Osram h4 55w/60w)


The next is dedicated to those who believe that the simple halogen headlamp system is finished:

IIHS:

(IIHS sr5103 pdf)

Yes, I mean better than these cars with Xenon or Leds which are rated as "marginal":


(From the same IIHS study)

After that, it is obvious that, all the chapters about the headlights illumination, are open, still. 
(to be continued).



14/September/2018

#2


What I mean that the Led's aren't a mature technology, yet:



The high vs the low beams simply, (in a t4), changes the luminosity not the pattern.




h4, with the perfect pattern, with the perfect light, both qualitatively and quantitatively, never glaring the other cars on the road,  hi-end:


The Superlative h4 halogen:


or:

Flosser





Illegal? But, if finally they'll work, they will be better, at any aspect, than any other technology. (Yes, in some cases, this may be illegal).


Leds super, (duper), white:





Yes, legal, (absolutely).
(to be continued)


19/September/2018

Flosser 145w/100w h4 first impressions, (with new reflectors):

#1 Much better than the standard h4 halogens, (with the old reflectors)

So this cannot be a benchmark.

#2 Just a tad better than the standard, double, headlights of a golf 4 with perfect reflectors.

This can be a benchmark.

The final thoughts: No the, very good, Flosser 145w/100w are not the ultimate answer, (if such a halogen thing exists), for the leds, (or the xenons).

The temperature, into the headlight box, rises very high but the fans seems to keep it under control, by the means of a recirculation of the warm air to the hot areas. The result is that the walls of the box and the crystal are touchable under the fans operation. 


21/September/2018


The principle of this invention is the smoothing of the temperature edges, as they exist in various points into the headlight and, especially, on the reflector part above the h4 halogen bulb, where, in many cases, the silver coating is destroyed through the intense heating of the tiny reflector into the bulb, which is responsible to make the correct cutting for the low beams. 

This alteration can be present even if the reflector is made of steel, as many times I have seen to happen to the t3's headlights.

Especially for the polycarbonate reflectors, any overloading above the initial design supposed to be dangerous for the coating.

With the 145w halogen bulbs it seems that there is no problem to the reflectors even after may hours of operation.

On the other hand, the lamp seems to work cooler, and this is imperative for the longetivity of the system. 

A first sneak peak video:



A second benchmark, (after the golf 4), made comparing to the standard Polo, (2010 model), twin headlights.

The 20 years older b3's, single,  headlights are much stronger than the Polo's twins, with the Fosslers, but even with the O.E.M. h4 , it looks slightly better! (Video is coming!).


It is not the first time when comparing twin beams vs single the single is better. Back to the eigthies, a friend of mine was a proud owner of a Lada 1500, twin beamed.

My Transporter, with single beams, had so much stronger lights that when the two cars where side by side, the Lada's twins seemed as a candles, almost. Rather it had to do with the quality of the reflectors coating.

Anyway, the results of the single b3's headlight vs the 2010 Polo's twins, with the perfect reflectors, impressed me, (and my family). It is really unexpected and convinces, once more, that someone is kidding us with the new technology for the cars year model 2005 and afterwards. 

Reading the above means that you are into 

The Syncro Heresy


23/September/2018

So here is the Polo's impressive twin beam headlight, (Hella made in Slovenia):




And here is, the old and conventional, single h4 bulb/reflector, mine, (Passat b3):

I changed the crystal and the reflector with those of the Depo brand, since I found it to have a tad more transparent/clear/white nuance than the OEM Hella.


Having both, left side, headlights on my hand, I couldn't avoid to make a comparison to their building quality, (Hella made in Germany, (b3), vs Hella made in Slovenia, (Polo).

The difference is huge and not for the 20 years newer headlight.

#1 The crystal of the Polo's headlight has the, well known, tendency to crack and to become semi-transparent. b3's is a perfect transparent real crystal, much more transparent than the, (lightly used), Polo's, twenty years after.

#2 The plastics of the old headlight are much thicker and of perfect quality, vs the computed to be just enough good of the Polo's. (Is this the reason that a breather is necessary to avoid explodes? Ι  take the opportunity to say that from now on there is a soft sealing system to b3's for the same reason, since the temperature is not the standard any more).

#3 The motor to adjust the beam height is fixed and sealed to the new vs the old which has a heavy duty, (still works perfectly), separate unit, reparable motor.

#4 The crystal of the new is sealed and fixed, making the cleaning of the reflectors a difficult task. The b3's crystal is easily movable, able to clean or to change, in the case of an emergency.


But all the above have nothing to do with the performance. So let's see how much better is the new twin vs the single old. At least the manufacturers, convinced us that the new is better or much better, right? 


The comparison I made is not of the usual one. Instead I thought that it is better to see how they perform under difficult conditions, without the support from the reflective, (when dry), surface of the tarmac.

I used the left headlight for both cases for practical reasons.

The Polo's headlight with the conventional halogen GE H7 A 55w low beam bulb/Osram H1 U 55w high beam bulb.

The b3's with the ultra high wattage Flosser 145w/100w off road bulb.


(The small plant and the panel in the center of the photo is used as a target, no photoshop).

Polo,  the high beam only.

Polo high beam + low beam.


b3's high beam
(Depo headlight)

b3's high beam with the foreground.
(Depo headlight)

Polo's low beam


b3's low beam
(Depo headlight)


If you are here, you are into 

The Syncro Heresy

(more are coming)


23/September/2018

20:45 (Greek time)

Surfing through the internet I found something which can be the turning point for the halogen bulbs?

It is coming from Japan. Is it the direct hit vs the xenon lights? Three times more light, than a halogen 55w/60w was said for the xenons...

This h4 monster is more than 3 times brighter, more than the xenon lights! 

I introduce you the, (Japan Pride), IPF 155W/195W:






Hey...please...stay here... where are you going?



The Syncro Heresy



halogen's(xenon) h4 new shape?




Quiz: is the "Forced Aircooled Headlamp" the proper syncrovention for the 155w 195w (= equal), h4, "Fatboy", halogen bulb?





Heat resistant bulb plug.



The Syncro Heresy


24/September/2018

A unique characteristic of the IPF's "Fat Boys" is that the low beam has the higher wattage! So the ~ 195w is not for the high but for the low beam which is used 90% of the time, (usually). Ingenious!

So it is more than 3.5 times more luminous, (since the 195w is not the real consumption but the luminance equivalence),  than the standard, traditional, 55w low beam halogen. 


01/October/2018

Waiting for this high tec Japan halogen h4 bulb, (IPF ~155W/195W), it is interesting to examine if there are any facts about the illumination of the car bulbs. Since our senses are not linear but logarithmic, wrongs introduced easily. Another contributing factor to wrong's, is the selective eye's sensitivity, which has it's own implications, as well as, the above mentioned, danger from the blue destructive frequencies, making the things very complicated, (as usually).

So lets examine some hard data about the quantity and the quality of the car bulbs to illuminate our road.

A big "thank you" to the valuable "bulb facts" internet place for the treasure they offer for free.

So, what a common halogen bulb has to offer?

Here is a specimen:




And how the, common, aftermarket, ebay leds are compared?


So here you can see common leds bad behavior:

#1 Bad pattern, (for the low beams, the highs are absolutely uncontrolled).

#2 The light they produce looks stronger because our brain has the tendency to evaluate the bluish color as stronger. They are not stronger, actually.

#3 Their major advantage, the so "in" blue color, is, in reality very blue, much bluer than the halogen light, which gives the maximum comfort when driving. Not to mention the eye strain when driving under rain or fog or both, conditions.


And the, absolutely illegal and dangerous, if retrofited without the auto leveling/auto washing, lens/projector UV filter,  for the oncoming traffic and for the health, (substances), sensitive, (as proved in the real life conditions), and expensive beyond logic to repair, (the OEMs),  Xenons specimen:



Now the interesting thing is that except  the common halogens, there are some distinctive ones.

Examples:


and the above tested by me:





Are you running, still?


Now there is a good reason to believe that this:




must be unbeatable!


If you are reading this stuff, it means that you are into

The Syncro Heresy


02/October/2018


O.k., yes I know, you disagree. After all when the xenons are dazzling you they look so much stronger! 

The explanation is "simple":

From the Dutch white paper:


14/October/2018

To the final frontier:






The Triplet Halogen.




* Adopting an adjusting mechanism for the beam azimuth of the coastal bulbs, in order to coincide to the main spot, there is no glaring at all. Possible only with h4 bulbs with their directional low beam.

* A huge number of low or high beam lighting patterns, according to the circumstances, is now possible.

* Unlimited number of  blends, wattages, colors, brands, is now feasible. The trammels are broken.

* By using the Forced Aircooled Headlighting syncrovention, there are no overheating fears. In the case of a fan malfunction, there were no ill effects, even after many hours of operation of the headlight without cooling in the Triplet mode.

* An electric system with relays and heavy cabling is a must.

* The power consumption may be within the limits. Everything depents on the implementation. 


Just not to forget....

If you are reading these Heretics, it means that you are into... 


The Syncro Heresy


20/October/2018


Worst case scenario #1: 

* The Triplet Halogen is working for, about, 1 hour, at 165 w, (3x55), low beam .

* Ambient temperature is 20° C.

* Vehicle is static permanently.

* No fan is established.

* Soft cloth with alcohol, at ambient temperature, is rubbing on the upper top surface of  the Hella crystal for cleaning/testing reasons. 

Results:


A vertical crack, stopped around in the middle of the crystal.

* Tip: the headlight has 8 clips which presses the crystal on the rubber seal tightly. At the moment of the the testing thermal shock only the two of them where used, stressing the crystal unevenly.


21/October/2018

Comparison, test field.

High beam.

Flosser 145w /100w





The Triple Halogen, 3x60w/3x55w


A very different pattern.

Not that good!



Low beam


Flosser





The Triplet Halogen



Not that bad!


Any way, I feel that better results are possible with the Triple Halogen, although it turns out to be a very complicated matter.



26/October/2018


Led head-lighting problems.


Very informative.


28/October/2018

Here is an exercise for the high beams only.

The work on this idea is done with an 50% destroyed reflector b3's headlight since the good ones are on the car and with  standard 55/60w halogen bulbs. 

The theory says that there is just one point for a bulb into a headlight reflector to function properly.

After a lot of research and tries on the bench, I have found a way how to focus multiple points of light in such a manner that any single light source is a part of a total well focused beam, which coincides at a high percentage, (~80%), to the main bulb beam. 

Ladies and Gentleman, here is the VFive Fold Halogen h4 headlight:


(1X60, (main), + 2x60 + 2x55, (V bulbs) = 270w).

Here are the spectacular results:

High beam with the main bulb into the headlight, only.

The V Five Fold h4 halogen headlight.



28/October/2018

It needs optimization for even better results! (Yes, it is possible).


30/October/2018

Today they arrived:



The headlights are running cooler, but no they are not stronger than the, (much cheaper), Flossers, (but they are legal for road use, I think). The Flossers are a tad brighter low and high beams, consuming more current though, as well as, running significantly hotter.

Unfortunately I was not able to persuade my smartphone to take reasonable pictures. I ''ll try again I hope so.

These results are encouraging to continue the adventure since the best halogen headlights are waiting to invent them! 


31/October/2018

Since I couldn't photo my headlights directly, (the beam is too strong for my blinded smartphone), I managed to take some comparison photos from the previously familiar test field. (Yes, I know that you want it).

The photos are taken with my Hella headlight which has a cracked crystal, a reflector damaged in an extend and without the fans, all the adjustments/positions being equal.

Lets start: 


IPF low beam:


Flosser low beam:



IPF high beam:



Flosser high beam:




05/November/2018


No, there is not just one focal point into my headlights. It is a matter of a walk on the parabola.

Please let me to introduce  to you 

The Adaptive Reversed Triplet Halogen h4:


Low beams
(3x55 watts)

(3x55 watts, Hella headlight)

We started from here:
(1x100 watts, Hella headlight)


High beams
(3x60watts)

(3x60 watts, Hella headlight)

We started from here:
(1x145 watts, Hella headlight)



1) The cutoff line is absolutely respected, for the low beams.

2) The central high beam filament is without restrictions from the coastal bulbs.

3) 27 light patterns are obtainable.

4) Inumerable combinations  of wattages and color frequencies are now possible.

5) Heavy cabling, relays and cooling fans are imperative.


*  Halolgen lighting: the only technology with CRI=100. (Just google it).

*  No ultraviolet radiation, (the minisqule one is filtered by the quartz envelope), which is not the case with the xenons or the leds.

Halogen bulb spectrum.


The fence is down!


(Reading these lines means that you are into The Syncro Heresy).


08/November/2018

Worst case senario #2.

Bench thermal stress test.

30' halogen bulb radiation, low beam, 1cm distance from the Hella reflector, (without the silver coating):


No fire, no smoke, no softening, no ill efects detected.


Thermal stress test on the bench. Stationary, no fan, 3x55 wats for an hour of operation, crystal Hella lens covered by transparent adhesive tape and an aluminum ring. Sprayed with liquid glass soap and water. 

You know, like this:




The Reversed Triplet Halogen h4 headlight thermal stress test.



Results: no problem at all.


09/November/2018

Two more thermal stresses, (on the bench, lens  covered by pvc adhesive tape, without fan):

#1 55w+100w+55w, (low beam).

#2 60w+145w+60w, (high beam).

The results, for both cases with the Hella headlights, are perfect.


Next will be two more, with the Depo headlights at:

#1 100w+100w+100w, (low beam).

#2 145w+145w+145w, (high beam).





31/March/2019

Flossers have 42 hours of operation, without problems, up to now. Is it possible to overcome their MTBF, (mean time between failure), which supposed to be ~ 75 hours operating into a forced aircooled environment? We 'll see...

Some more photos from my gallery:








28 October 2019

Just a few hours away from the average MTB, (mean time between failure), which is 70 hours for the Flosser 100/145 W halogen lamps. This is approximately 10 times less than the standard 55/60 W halogens.

For the moment the lamps, the ventilators and the supporting relays are working perfectly.

Will the aircooling be effective?


These are the registrations of the working hours, (cumulative):


1) 25/09/2018       5 

2) 04/10/2018       7 

3) 20/10/2018      10 

4) 02/11/2018      14 

5) 21/11/2018      20 

6) 25/11/2018      21 

7) 10/12/2018      26 

8)13/12/2018       27 

9)19/12/2018       28 

10)22/12/2018     30 

11)24/12/2018     34 

12)04/01/2019     35 

13)07/01/2019     36 

14)18/01/2019     37 

15)28/01/2019     38 

16)01/02/2019     39 

17)24/02/2019     40 

18)06/03/2019     41 

19)30/03/2019     42 

20)17/04/2019     43 

21)03/05/2019     44

22)28/05/2019     47 

23)18/06/2019     50 

24)26/06/2019     53 

25)07/08/2019     56 

26)26/09/2019     61 

27)10/10/2019     65 

28)21/10/2019     66 

29)25/10/2019     67 


10 November 2019

#1 70 hours of operation, the average MTB is achieved.

#2 Consumer reports: 


"You don't automatically get a better system when you use LEDs, Hella’s Pietzonka says. "If you have a bad optical system or a bad reflector, then the LEDs can’t produce better light,” he says.
Cost is also a factor. The automaker decides how many lumens (a measurement of brightness) it wants out of its lights. For example, a headlight assembly with two LEDs may perform worse than a halogen light, one that has three LEDs may equal the performance of a halogen light, and a unit with five LEDs can exceed the performance of a halogen light, but ultimately it's a matter of how much money a manufacturer wants to spend, Pietzonka says."
(article excerpt)


11 November 2019

Halogen lamps, with their minimal UV radiation, (especially compared to HID and LED lamps), back to 1992, were susceptible for causing cancer! 

The New York Times:

"Scientists said today that they have more evidence that halogen lights may increase the risk of skin cancer, a risk that apparently can be eliminated by using simple glass or plastic covers over the bulbs.

Researchers at the University of Genoa in Italy, in a letter published in the current issue of the journal Nature, said halogen lamps emit large amounts of far-ultraviolet radiation, a type known to cause skin cancer. In tests with hairless mice with a propensity toward cancer, the researchers said, they were able to produce skin lesions and large tumors of increasing malignancy by exposing the animals to uncovered halogen lamps for 12 hours a day for a year.

The tests were an extension of earlier work done in Australia, Britain and elsewhere, which found that exposure to halogen lamps caused damaging mutations in bacteria and cell cultures that indicated a cancer risk.

The Italian researchers, Silvio De Flora and Francesco D'Agostini, said in the letter that their small pilot study with 12 mice was not definitive, but that the results were striking enough to confirm the results of the cell tests and indicate a possible human risk.

In the animal tests, mice not exposed to the halogen lamps and those shielded by a thin pane of glass while exposed to the lamps 20 inches away did not develop the skin lesions. The researchers said this showed that the damaging light was easy to block, and they recommended that all halogen lights be fitted with glass or plastic covers.

A spokesman for the Food and Drug Administration said the agency looked into the health risks posed by halogen bulbs and determined that they were not great enough to warrant immediate regulation."
(article excerpt)


13 November 2019

I am coming back to the IPF halogens since an interesting discovery found about them.

I was wondering how it is possible to have, almost, the same luminosity, (a tad lower), to the Flossers, although they have lower wattage, 60/80 vs 100/145.

For the low beams IPF gives an explanation but nothing for the high beams.

Low beams:


So here, I think, found their secret, because it is not just marketing, there is a secret design point.

Please look:

On the left is a conventional 55/60w halogen lamp. On the right is an IPF 60/80W.

Both are on the high beams filament.


Here we can see the conventional lamp as lights up on the high beam on a vertical 45° axis. No light is emitted from this direction.

















The extra Glinken Vinch of the IPF halogens. Revealed.

The extra unique  "Glinken Vinch", (the term as it came automatically),  of  the IPF halogen lamp:


Here is the IPF as seen from the 45° axis. A light ring emits strongly directly  light! A unique characteristic of these IPF lamps, manufacturer avoiding to mention anything about!




14 November 2019

These findings call, once more, for a direct comparison: Flosser 100/145w vs IPF 60/80w (but according to IPF equal to 155/195w).

This time the comparison will be out of the headlights since I do not succeed for into the headlights comparison. The results expected to be the same, the Flosser a tad stronger. 

So here we are, the IPF lamp is with 0 hours of operation, the Flosser with 70 hours of operation.

High beam:

                                   IPF                                                                  FLOSSER
 Flosser is clearly stronger.


Low beam:

                                                                        IPF       FLOSSER

Flosser is stronger just a little bit, ~1-5%.

These results are consistent to those got with the lamps into the headlights. 



23 November 2019


"But forced aircooling for the halogen headlights? Are you kidding?"


Thermal Analysis of Automotive Headlamp
Ms. Susmita Kamat1, Mr. Swapnil Shinde2, Prof.N.V.Sali3



Conclusion:

"Also in
first case of 55W bulb used, the temperatures are in
acceptable range, where as in second case of 100W bulb the
temperatures are not acceptable."

Can you imagine what is going to happen when not one x100w is used but three?
(We already know the answer, for the specific headlights, even without the, welcomed anyway, aircooling: nothing at all!).



Now let me to introduce my new creation: h4 + h3, (low beams only, for the moment)!

This solution has some outstanding advantages:

1)Absolutely between the legal margins, reinforced lighting, absolute respect of the cutoff line.

2)Lower consumption to the triplet, reversed or not, halogens, for the same, or better, results, although not absolutely comparable.

3)Much simpler construction.

4)The combination with the triplets always possible for enhanced adaptiveness!


Enjoy:

low beam, one Hella headlight.

h4 (IPF 60/80W, supposed to be 155/195w, (fat boy)).

 h4 (IPF 60/80W, supposed to be 155/195w, (fat boy))  +  h3 conventional 55w lamp

Attention!

The test field and the point of exposure are exactly the same, as of the previous tries, but since of the different season the terrain is covered with flora, so the pictures are not directly comparable to the previous ones.

h4+h3:




24 November 2019



27 November 2019


The double halogen h4.

Low beams.

1x55w, the standard pattern.


1x55w, the standard pattern, foreign object into the headlamp, (a second h4 into the optics).

1x55w + 1x60w, both halogen bulbs are on.


High beams.

1x60w, the standard pattern.

1x60w, the standard pattern, foreign object into the headlamp, (a second h4 into the optics).

1x60w + 1x55w, both halogen bulbs are on.
No comments! (For the moment).


29 November 2019

After a lot of adjustments lets have a look, again,  to the Triplet Halogen which seems that gives the best overall results:


The Triplet Halogen h4:

Low beams:

2x55w + 1x90w

High beams: 

2x60w + 1x100w


And the winner is:

The Triplet Halogen!



(Update 13 December 2019: I mean...The REVERSED...


The construction and the final results will be presented here asap.


03 December 2019

Important update: the previously posted halogen lamp data of the Bulbfacts, are for the H7 bulbs.

Here are some luminosity data for the H4 bulbs, (Tacoma World):



The first set for the Triplet Halogen will be: 


The Flosser 145w 100w for the center lamp, (having already 70 hours of use with air cooling).



And the OSRAM  SUPER BRIGHT PREMIUM:


for the two side bulbs.


So the total wattage for the low beams will be: 

4x90= 360w + 2x100=200w, TOTAL for both headlights = 560w, or 280w/headlight.


High beams: 

4x100=400w + 2x145=290w, TOTAL for both headlights = 690w, or 345w/headlight.


A lot of decisions have to be done in terms of current, temperature, adjustments, implementation.

The various tests, for the moment at least, are very courageous.


F.ex., a very important test was with 6x145w= 870w + a lot of accessories on, (fog lights, air conditioner, rear window + mirrors heaters, position lights, radiator fan), simultaneously for 15' and everything operated properly at 20° C.

So, setting the high beams at 690w is towards the safer limits.

My alternator must be more than 90A.


So my real wattage, for the low beams,  will be x5.3 and my real lumens will be: (1700x4=)6800 + (~1800x2)= 3600, TOTAL =  ~10400, or 5200lumens/headlight.

For the high beams we have 2900x4=11600 + ~4000x2=8000, TOTAL=~ 19600, very near to lasers, (20000 lumens).

If everything goes well, the next step is 6x4000=~24000 lumens, (flosser 145w), for the high beams, which is more than lasers.



The system will be operated as adaptive and to the height adjust mechanism an automated system has to be added(?).

Of course the frequency of the light is not harmful as the HIDs, the LEDs, or the non filtered lasers is.

Please have a look here.


13 December 2019

Walking on the parabola!

sculpturesque...






Into the above photos, between others, are included:

the azimuth regulators, the base, the horizontal and vertical stabilizers, the fan, etc., etc.

The first impressions include: absolutely clear cut off, and an ultra strong, but 3200 k relaxing, lighting, impressive, at least, low and high beams.

More asap.


14 December 2019

Adjusting the pattern and the azimuth. All with the fan into the reflector.

DEPO reflector and lens, single, right, dual parabola headlight,  Flosser h4 145w 100w bulb.


Staring point:

#1 Only the main lamp into the reflector.

a. Low beam, without the lens.



b. Low beam with the lens.



c. High beam without the lens.



d. High beam with the lens.



#2 Everything into the reflector: the two extra bulbs, the fan, the base, the azimuth adjusters, the cables, the connectors.

The central bulb in operation ONLY.


a. The low beam in operation, without the lens.



b. The low beam with the lens.



c. The high beam without the lens.



d. The high beam with the lens.



As we can see, the strategy of  putting foreign objects into the reflector, if it is strategy and not a random choice, has no negative effects to the optics architecture and performance.


Adjusting the azimuth.



For the best results, the two side bulbs must be parallel each other, in terms of emitting the low beam. 



SO...


It is official, it is final, it is technically perfect:

The Reversed Triplet Halogen h4, Forced Air Cooled Headlights!


A helluva more, 

eye relaxing, eye proper, no glaring, light:

Low beam:

2x90w + 1x100w




Starting from here:




High beam

2x100w + 1x145w


Starting from here:


Notes.

#1 The difference in the color frequency is due to the current drop, since my home 230v to 12v transformer is not capable for such a load.

#2 There is a skew in the above images since the headlight and the screen where not absolutely aligned and not because the headlight melted from the heat! (Polycarbonate reflector, reinforced with glass fibers, inflammable).

There is a detail still remaining: the light fragment for all the percentiles.

It is coming...


15 December 2019

From the thermal stress tests: 

low beam 100w just not touch a Depo reflector piece:



16 December 2019


Light Fragments.



16 December 2019

"ADJUSTMENTS? What adjustments? You cannot make ANY adjustments into an h4 halogen headlight!"

(Oh yes I can!).


The right bulb cutoff:, lens off:




Exactly aligned to the central bulb cutoff, lens off:




The left bulb cutoff, lens off:



Exactly aligned to the central bulb cutoff, lens off:




The cutoff line of all the three bulbs combined, lens off:




The cutoff of all the three bulbs combined, lens on:


Oh yes, I can!


18 December 2019

First impressions of thermal tests on the, static, car, one headlight in operation, headlight fan on:

#1 Half an hour low beam half an hour high beam: everything worked just fine.

#2 The one headlight is stronger than what where previously the two and this is obvious, (90x2 + 100, vs 100x2).

#3 The high beam operation is a very tough test since the maximum watts are demanded from the system: 145 + 2x100. The lights never operated statically in this mode. Anyway, there was no problem at all.


Time for the electrics...


23 December 2019

Finally, making the last tests before the installation, having the air cooling disabled, both headlights, HELLA and DEPO found to  melt their reflector covering  substance, silver or whatever it is.

Covering the reflector with aluminum tape is rejected, since there is a tremendous decrease for  the headlight performance.

The active cooling was adopted for the elongation of the bulbs life, not for the heat protection of the headlight.

Now the question is if there is any way, without active cooling in operation, to protect the system from overheating.

I am thinking of a way to dissipate the heat in such a manner that the total structure will be loaded thermally almost equally. Will be enough? We 'll see...


13 January 2020

It seems that the project is at, deadlock, danger...

In cases like these I am using two principles:


Principle #1: The Hidden Potential Principle.

Any construction, under circumstances, may offer much better performance, if the central idea of the designer is restricted. And the unavoidable restrictions are coming at the, final, manufacturing, stage because of economic, technical, psychological or social reasons. 

In countless cases, using  this principle, achieved solutions overturning the impossible.


Principle #2: The Captain Kirk's Unconditional  Triumph.

If you running a ship, on Earth or into the Universe, you have to win, always. There is no margin to loose.
Even if the ship is into a totally unknown environment, even if you do not have the necessary,  even if the enemy is infinitely strong.

To achieve this you can use your imagination, anything surrounds you, (which suddenly may be converted to an absolutely different object from that what really is, to a powerful weapon or tool), any idea chosen from your knowledge library or from the library of the Universe, (ha ha ha).  

Just exactly the Captain Kirk, (the hero of my childhood), did, for his star ship, The Enterprise. 


Saying  these, lets get back to the business.


This is the DIY ceramic module for the Hella headlight and the two, extra, bulbs:
The two bulbs are not interconnected electrically but have a separate, high-heat, silicon cable.



Assembled:



Here we can see the headlight after one hour of operation, without ventilation, stationary, on the bench, cooked by the three halogens at the low beam:


Immersing into a proper cooling liquid examined as a solution to this problem but rejected for various technical reasons. I think that it can be a viable solution, adding 7-10 kgr, for both the headlights, though.


As we can see, the damage is not divided equally  between the  sides of the reflector. On the left, (for the passenger side headlight), is the major problem.

These b3 headlights are not symmetrical. The road side is narrower than the center and the distance between the bulbs and the reflector is minimized to this point.

Reflector, driver's side.


Now the question is if there is any solution...


Two important findings must be considered:

#1 The headlight does not take fire having in it three halogen, high wattage, bulbs, in operation, even stationary.

#2 The reflector is destroyed by these three high wattage halogen bulbs.


It seems that the solution is a matter of keeping the temperature within the reflector's operational envelope limits and to make it in a safe manner.

Since the liquid cooling is an abandoned idea, the other possibility is the air cooling, which is already working perfectly for a 70 hours operation period, in a sealed headlight, with excellent results, BUT with one 145/100w bulb only.


After extensive tests, with the three bulbs in operation, it was found that:

#1 the inner headlight air has not enough volume to cool down the reflector through the  re-circulation, everything is overheated.

#2 the fan, at the original position, (or at the only alternative, at the bottom of the reflector),

(Depo headlight)

 is subject for melting,  after the operation,  the bulbs still emit heat.


14 January 2020

Complete deadlock!

Time to use the principle #1, The Hidden Potential Principle.


Looking at the case of the specific headlight trying to find a solution, suddenly a strange idea lights up: the designer of this headlight intended to make it air cooled! Yes, everything seems to be constructed according to this intention! (Or I think so, but the result is the same. The possibility for a viable solution).


15 January 2020

Next step: 

The Open Air Cooled Headlight! 


Here is the big dilemma: a sealed air cooled headlight, using the existing volume of the air, (which is obvious that it is not enough), but with unparalleled environmental isolation, or an open headlight which is cooled with the continuous insertion of fresh air, (o.k. under the bonnet air, any way).

The continuous insertion let the dirt to get in and contaminate the bulbs the lens and the reflectors! No one, as far as I know, has ever dare something like this!

On the other hand the thermal dispersion capabilities are climbing to a phenomenal level, (for a headlight), using this solution.


Questions: 

#1 How to insert and circulate the air into the headlight?

#2 Will this be enough for the Reversed Triplet Halogen?

#3 Is there any way to reduce the contamination to a minimum?

#4 When, finally,  the headlight will be contaminated, is there any way to wash it internally without opening or removing it from the car and without causing any loss of the lighting performance?


Answers:


Answer #1:

The cap for the headlight seems to be fan ready:










The, equalized, temperature and the air flow:


The air guide for the airflow circulation equalizing the temperature for the two headlight edges, the narrow and the wide:
The hot air exhaust, (and the air guide):

Exhaust air flow optimization:


Answer #2:

The temperature, within the headlight,  measured statically on the bench, when the fan and the three bulbs are on,  seems to be equal, but better in terms of  homogeneous dispersion, compared to a sole 60/55  working bulb but without the air cooling.


Answer #3:

Various dust filter solutions where considered:




All of them where restrictive. Finally one solution, with the largest possible filter surface, gave the best, almost totally nonrestrictive,  results:



Feeding filtered air is a way, (from the ancient times), to reduce to a minimum the contamination of a structure.


Note:

There is an interesting finding, that opening a 20 and 30 years old sealed headlight, which are in perfect condition without any kind of damage to the sealants, there is always a contamination in the form of a very thin dark layer on the reflector! 

The open air cooled headlight will never have such a problem since will be as in the #4 answer:


Answer #4: 

The internal of the headlight will be equipped with two or three injectors in conjunction with a liquid pump, similar to the one for the wipers or the headlight outer cleaning injectors, so, in the case contamination is detected, or after a specific period of use, the inner injectors will be energized, cleaning any fine layer of contamination.  The system is connected to the wipers liquid container. 


Notes:

#1 The use of the inner injectors will be restricted in order to be used only when the bulbs are not operating, since, although a halogen bulb may work perfectly immersed into cooling liquid, cannot afford a sudden liquid spray when hot.

#2 The liquid for the wipers and the headlight injectors must be distilled water having the correct dilution percentage of a proper ethyl or methyl cleaner. In extensive tests, this mix showed a perfect behavior, cleaning  the inner of the headlight without any ill effect. (Depending on the distilled water additive, some, harmful at a first glance, iridescence on the reflector is detected).



Tips:

#1 The step motor mechanism for the beam adjustment remains fully functional.

#2 The Depo headlights had glued joints for the up and down adjustment of the beam and the, strong, step motors had hard times to operate, (although they achieved the adjustment stretching the levers!).
The glue easily removed. 


17 January 2020


The Inside Liquid Cleanable Headlight! 


So here is the OEM  system where the DIY inner washing system has to be connected:






30 January 2020


An attempt for a custom aluminum/copper  nozzle: 




31 January 2020

Internal cleaner in operation, finally:











14 February 2020

Today is determined the final internal cleaning architecture.

 (The word "final" is going to be used after this point again, so anything may be final or not. Please forgive 
me).


16 February 2020

One question to answer in a application like this has to do with the number of nozzles. The more they are the better the inner volume can be covered.

Using four nozzles per headlight, (near the upper limit in terms of space and the liquid pressure is obtained by the pump), for the surface of the reflector, the three bulbs, (which are a physical obstacle for the cleaning beams), and the inner surface of the lens, are not enough, as it comes out. 

A solution with one nozzle/1 cm invented to cover all the surfaces in high resolution, but even this was not enough, causing the additional problem of a tremendous liquid pressure drop.

My intention  is to make it  as simple as possible, using just one nozzle per headlight, ideally.

But if the four nozzles are not enough, how is it possible a single nozzle to make the miracle?

Experimentation and imagination came together, (in syncronization with a lot of a new type of  cold showers, the headlight cold showers), in order to find a unique point into the headlight, using the ceramic base of the  new artillery in it, which, when it is irradiated  using a single nozzle of the proper caliber and azimuth, controlled  by a liquid reflector, produces  cleaner droplets, scanning the inner volume, including everything, excluding nothing.


360° horizontal dispersion, upper percentile.




More are coming asap.


14 March 2020

Reset!


The new attitude is about:

#1 How to keep the head light sealed but, simultaneously, keep open the road  for the thermal energy to go out.

#2 How to avoid the liquid cleaning system. 

#3 The inner air may contribute for cooling.

#4 The system must be as simple as possible.

#5 The surface of the plastic reflector is the major target for cooling.

#6 The surface of the lens is a second important target for cooling.

#7 The three halogen bulbs do not need cooling for their short term operation. They can be benefited by cooling for the long term, though.


Here we can see a cooked reflector operated, (30'), into a sealed headlight, with the three bulbs at low beams, without any cooling system in operation:





So a multi-hybrid system is now under examination: 

#1 Aluminum fins for the reflector.

#2 Fan for the lens and bulbs.

#3 Thermal stress protection membrane for the lens.

#4 Headlight case thermal radiation aluminum, double side,

drums.


Here we are:

Fins:





Drums:






Results, (fan off, 30' of operation, sealed headlight): Perfect!





03 April 2020





The low beams:




The high beams:



07 April 2020


Coronavirus passport.

Any, exclusive, id, 
to break any quarantine?

Wanted halogens or leds,
wanted xenons or experts,
able to make any of these,
twin, triplet, forced aircooled, id's?

Since never-ever these,
clarity and colories,
will be under of the hood,
of any car running the route,

these airforced triplet id's,
exclusively for the b3's,
now are the only, needed, id's
to break any quarantines! 


12 April 2020


The electric system.


Old, existing, relays will be used for the project.

Their performance found to be problematic, having a serious voltage drop, with one exception, so they had to be improved. 

After the hard wiring and the polishing of the contacts, the result is 0.1v drop, which may be improved by the use.

The famous NEW ERA and FD relays are using the pressing of the contact plates by nails vs the HELLA which uses a uniform, without any interruptions, plate, a  technique which proved to be much more effective.


17 April 2020

The Board of  Directors Relays:


Tips:

#1 Internally or externally fused.

#2 The two NEW ERA relays are the only double relays which are really two independent relays, each one having a separate channel of power, with a distinct fuse and power line. So, theoretically, they are capable of running, simultaneously, two bulbs, (f.ex. in the case of high beams flashing), without any voltage drop. For that reason they will feed the central bulbs with the higher wattage, (145/100w), having double power lines.

#3 A service switch is added in order to adjust the low beams pattern with a conventional lux meter/adjuster.

#4 The blue relay is equivalent to the two, similar, red but without internal fuse. An internal fuse added. 

#5 The industrial standard of 30A fuse per channel retained with the exception of the two HELLA relays used for the cooling fans where 5A/channel fuses used since I haven't even tiny.

#6 For the line of the relay coils the existing fuse for the bulbs is used. 


18 April 2020

Cabling.

An existing cable had to be used. It is a speakers STRAIGHT  WIRE cable TYPE CL3 (UL) CONX-16/4.
It is within the limits, (cabling), and worked without problems for 70 hours with my 145/100w Flosser bulbs in pairs, (13AWG).
The CL3/FT4 certification was severely tested, putting directly fire on it, with a lighter, and, surprisingly, the flame was, immediately, turned off. 

My measurements showed more than the theoretically correct voltage drop, assuming that it is due to connection impurities, hoping that there is space to make corrections.

Any way, here are my measurements, (20° C, engine not working, 55w+60w fillament on, just battery>cables>bulb):

For the right headlight ~1.6m cable in needed, so the measurements are with this length:


#1

1x16AWG

Initial battery voltage, (bulb not working): 12.35v

Bulb terminals, (bulb working): 11.57v

Battery terminals, (bulb working): 11.95v


#2

2x16AWG, (=13AWG).

Initial battery voltage, (bulb not working): 12.35v

Bulb terminals, (bulb working): 11.72v

Battery terminals, (bulb working): 11.95v


#3

3x16AWG, (=11AWG)

Initial battery voltage, (bulb not working): 12.35v

Bulb terminals, (bulb working): 11.75v

Battery terminals, (bulb working): 11.95v



The project keeps going by the #2 solution.


As for the terminals, I believe only to this solution, (for the specific application):



19 April 2020

Everything is ready: the electric motors for the level adjustment, the heat resistant inner cables, (silicon or teflon or FT4), no plastic but metal inner cable supports, the fins, the, (double side), drums, the fans, the bulbs, the power modules, the light fragments, the heat resistant stress lens cover, the lens water jets, (outer washing), the service switch, the relay board, the bulbs, the headlights.


A very eye relaxing feeling with the six reversed triplet halogens on, (low or high beams), on the road. It is very difficult to express it. Nothing similar to the xenon or led effect. 



More are coming asap.


21 June 2020

A sneak peak:










06 July 2020



The Burning
eta


The mkII edition for the high beams:








The  two reversed bulbs, give a much inferior image, for the high beams, the mkI edition:

 


15 July 2020

The Burning Θ, sneak peak.


The initial high beam.

The Burning Θ is on. 




06 August 2020

3 x h4 + 2 x h3  forming a Quintet or, better, an


 
 
 
 
 

 

18 August 2020

 

The last video is withdrawn. Something went wrong.

(A faulty bulb, (high beams), and wrong headlight leveling).

 

More asap.


21 August 2020


Burning Theta Optimization


It turns out that the Burning Thetas need optimization.

Here is the study for an Harmonic Quintet:

(False light frequencies necessary for the camera to operate, due to the high energy intensity).


















Ladies and gentlemen…






22 August 2020

 

After the last optimization for the high, (especially), but and the low, beams, my two demonstration videos, for the old setup, are deleted.

 

New, optimized, video is coming.

 

My central h4 bulbs will be either the Flosser 145w/100w or, the new kid on the block, the Ring 160w/90w, whichever will perform better.

 


The two h4 Osram lateral bulbs are giving signs of …over-cooling, (yes, I can’t believe it), and may be changed, as soon as possible, to Flossers.

 

As for the two lateral Narva 100w h3s, it is early to say anything.



23 August 2020

 

 

You see, when we went from here



 

 

 

to here

 

 

 

nobody noticed that SPACE created! (To the final frontier.).







The total project is



(of course…).


30 August 2020

 

O.S.F. (Observing Strange Phenomena).

 

#1 The Ring bulbs.

 

The Ring bulbs are here and the following O.S.F. observed:

 

ά) On the bulb is stamped another wattage than that on the package. For the low beams, 100w vs 90w. This is good for my scope.


β΄)  High beams Ring 160w vs Flosser 145w. Flosser beams more light:





γ΄) High beams Ring 160w vs IPF, (Fat Boys), 80w=195w, Ring beams more light:



#2 The Flosser bulbs.

 

They are the only bulbs which are glued, (soldering tin?), as for the upper flange vs the other which are welded.

 

So, both bulbs, used into the Harmonic Quintet,  are melting their glue, (~ 1 hour of use), becoming asymmetric, declaring their inability to be used as the central bulbs, into the specific setup. It is a loss:





01 September 2020

The sound of The Harmonic Quintet:





02 September 2020

 

New Era, but 40 years old, relays, bridged for drop voltage reduction to 0.1v – 0.0 v:


 
04 September 2020

The light of The Harmonic Quintet:





15 September 2020

The Harmonic Quintet, how it looks like:












Yes, for sure, but don’t worry! It is just…